co-driver
Upgrade reference /brakes

Brakes

No longer optional in FH6 — stock brakes lock up under hard downshifts and trail-braking. Budget for one tier.

What it does

Brakes used to be the part you skipped because the PI was better spent on power. FH6 changed that — stock brakes now lock the fronts on aggressive downshifts and behave badly under trail-brake. The result is messy turn-in, mid-corner understeer that "feels like" a setup problem but isn't, and lap-time loss that no slider can recover.

One brake upgrade tier (Sport or Race) is the rule. The second tier is rarely worth the PI because you can't actually use much more peak deceleration than tires can hold — you're already grip-limited, not brake-limited.

Brake upgrades also unlock the in-tune brake bias and pressure sliders fully. See `/tune/brakes` for the slider-side of this lever.

Options

Stock
PI 0
Best for
Only if you literally have no PI to spare and the car already brakes well
Tradeoff
Front lockup on downshifts; bad trail-brake behaviour
Sport brakes
PI 2–5
Best for
B/A class — the sweet spot for most road builds
Tradeoff
Marginal vs Race at the top end
Race brakes
PI 5–10
Best for
S1/S2/R where bias tuning matters and entry speed is high
Tradeoff
PI cost can be wasted at low classes where tires give up first

Decision rules

  • 1.Budget at least one brake tier on any FH6 build above D-class.
  • 2.Sport tier is usually enough — Race tier is for S-class entry-speed work.
  • 3.If you still get lockup after upgrading, fix it with brake bias / pressure in the tune, not a higher tier.

Build smells that point here

  • No brake upgrade above D-class
    Add one Sport brake tier. 2–5 PI, fixes lockup and trail-brake understeer.

After the install — tune it

/tune/brakes

Related

Weight ReductionTires (Compound & Width)